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reprap:printing [2009/10/25 23:35] sepisultrumreprap:printing [Unknown date] (current) – removed - external edit (Unknown date) 127.0.0.1
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-====== Preparations ====== 
-**Attention:** Running the reprap with wrong parameters may inflict serious damage to the extruder or the base plate! 
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-To get reliable prints you have to find out the correct parameters for your extruder and material. This includes the distance from the base plate, temperature and speed. 
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-When running the extruder at a too low temperature may result in pressure building up inside the extruder. This can damage the ptfe tube beyond repair. You have to recalibrate the temperature settings for every new material you are using. Even the same type of material on different rolls may have different parameters. 
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-To get some initial values to work with follow the instructions which can be found at the blog from bits from bytes. 
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-See http://rapmanv3.blogspot.com/2009/05/extruder.html and http://rapmanv3.blogspot.com/2009/05/printing.html 
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-A short summary: 
-Adjust the bed according to the instructions. When laying out the bed the nozzle should press the extruded plastic a bit onto the bed so it sticks good. 
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-Using a sheet of paper is a good method to test the distance of the extruder head to the table. The head should move freely above the paper. If the head is too close the the table, the head can clog which results eventually in disaster. (ABS melting into the table, ptfe-tube expands and rips) 
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-If you hear a clicking noise from the feeder assembly, don't just blindly tighten the screws, maybe something is wrong, either the temperature is too low, or the feeding speed is to high or the head is too close to the table. 
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-To get a initial temperature to run with heat the extruder to the desired value. Then try to feed the plastic by hand. If you can produce some nice filament by hand fasten the clamps pressing the plastic to the shaft. We had some success using ABS at 240°C. 
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-If you set a temperature that is too low you might damage the extruder by building up to much pressure. If you set a to high temperature the ptfe may fail. 
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-Check if you can restart the machine reliably from a cold state. 
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-Now you can try your first print which will be a "schnaps glas" ;) 
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-The raft for the minimug is very strong. The first layer is printed out at 1/4 the normal speed producing a very thick filament. The next layers are printed at a faster speed. 
-====== Skeinforge ====== 
-Skeinforge settings for printing at 18mm/s, at 0.4mm layer thickness. Calibrated according to {{http://rapmanv3.blogspot.com/2009/09/more-skienforge.html}} and {{http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skeinforge}} {{http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=ABS}} 
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-{{:reprap:dotskeinforge.tar.bz2|.skeinforge from sepi}} 
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----- 
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-(deprecated: {{:reprap:repdist.tar.gz|Repdist from Schneider}}) 
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- 
-====== Printing ====== 
-**WARNING: It is absolutely necessary to restart the Repman after completing/aborting a print or else the repman might damage it self. Do this also when exiting the file chooser menu** 
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-For example the head might move into the base plate producing a hole :( 
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-Select the Print Object menu item and use the right up/down-Keys to choose a model to print. 
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-There is some filament extruded while heating up. Remove this with some tweezers to before the head starts moving when it reaches the target temperature. This might be necessary again between layers. 
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-====== Printed objects and configurations ====== 
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-^ Date ^ Name ^Object Description ^ Modeler/CAD ^ weight ^ Link to Thingiverse ^ Configuration changes ^ Pictures ^ Comments ^ Copies ^ 
-| 11.06.2009 | shot_export.bfb | Bigger shot glass | Blender | n/a | n/a | Standard | n/a | Quite a good print. Only weak layer | 1| 
-| 11.06.2009 | empire_state.bfb | Empire Statebuilding | n/a | 10g |http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:625  | none | todo | good print| 1| 
-| 12.06.2009 | key_export.bfb | Handcuff Key / Vertical | Blender | ~3g | n/a | Standard | n/a | Extruder much too fast ⇒ not enough time for layer to get hard | 1| 
-| 12.06.2009 | key_export.bfb | Handcuff Key / Vertical | Blender | ~3g | n/a | Extruder speed: 8mm/s | n/a | slower extrusion, but forgot to set PWM feed accordingly ⇒ extruder tried to feed too much |1| 
-| 12.06.2009 | key_export.bfb | Handcuff Key / Vertical | Blender | ~3g | n/a | Extruder speed: 8mm/s, Flowrate PWM: 180 | n/a | Quite good print. Only "beard" of key is not very hard |1| 
-| 12.06.2009 | meter_key_export.bfb | Utility Meter Key | n/a | n/a | http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88 | Standard | http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:198 | Good print | 3  | 
-| 12.06.2009 | Untitled_export.bfb | Servoholder | AOI | 15g | n/a | none | n/a | 50mm x 60mm wraping is visible| 1| 
-| 13.06.2009 | http://www.thingiverse.com/download:1429 | Box lid | n/a | 10g | http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:635 | none | n/a | n/a | 1| 
-| 15.06.2009 | kleinbottle from bfb-forum | Kleinbottle | n/a | 14g | - | 9r | n/a | - | 1 | 
-| 17.06.2009 | pyramide with eye | Illuminatenpyramide | n/a | 11g | n/a | 9r | n/a | - | 1 | 
-| 17.06.2009 | meter_key_export.bfb | Utility Meter Key | n/a | 4g | http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88 | 9r | n/a | - | 1 |  
-| 18.06.2009 | key_diverse | Handcuff Key / Optimized | Blender + G-Code | ~1g | n/a | G-Code Hacking involved. See bottom | n/a | n/a | 4 | 
-| 20.06.2009 | ScrBoxT.bfb, ScrBoxB.bfb | Screwable Jewellery Box | MetaCAD | 20g | http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:413 | codec | n/a | Bottom sucks, 2nd top print is great. Screwing works anyway. | 2 | 
-| 21.06.2009 | meter_key_export.bfb | Utility Meter Key | n/a | 4g | http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88 | 9r | n/a | - | 1 | 
-| 27.06.2009 | keyb5.bfb | Handcuff Key | n/a | 1g | n/a | 9r-optimized epic fail | n/a | see calibration |1 | 
-| 30.06.2009 | S.bfb | S-shaped thingy | n/a | 2g | n/a | 9r | n/a | - | 2 | 
-| 30.06.2009 | x41spare.bfb | spare part for x41 | n/a | 3g | n/a | 9r | n/a | - | 1 | 
-| 20.07.2009 | secpuzz1.bfb | replacement part for puzzle | BurrTools | 3g | n/a | | http://blogmal.42.org/misc/reprap-die-erste/brick.jpg | good result | 1 | 
-| 23.07.2009 | rail05 | Duplo Lego Gleis | HeeksCAD | 31g | 9Rreprap_profile.tar | mazzoo | n/a | klafft derbe | 1 | 
-| 08.09.2009 | sb_s*.bfb | 3D-Puzzle Steine | BurrTools | 3g | n/a | 9Rreprap_profile.tar | | good, a little imprecise | 1 | 
-| 13.10.2009 | official minimug | Minimug | dunno | 3g | n/a | official bfb | | very good | 2 | 
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-=======Calibration====== 
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-The aim of this calibration process is to find skeinforge parameters for a better print quality and to better understand the influence of those parameters. 
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-With this first test series I'm trying to get watertight floors. 
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-For this purpose I am using a very small [[https://brezn.muc.ccc.de/~9r/reprap/testmug.gts|mug shape]] I created in aoi, so printing does not take too long. 
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-^ run ^ parameter ^ observations ^ 
-| 1 | [[https://wiki.muc.ccc.de/_media/reprap:repdist.tar.gz|schneiders refenzconfig]] | floors are not tight enough; ok from side view; sometimes layers do not connect properly | 
-| 2 | "Extrusion Width over Thickness" erhöht von 1.5 auf 1.8 | not much better | 
-| 3 | lowered "Feedrate" to 12.0 mm/s | too low, => klicking => abort | 
-| 4 | "Feedrate" to 14mm/s | no visible difference in the floor layers compared to "2:" | 
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-just realized something: in the doku of skeinforge-speed "extrusion fill density ratio"="fillament diameter"/"extrusion width"/"layer thickness" should be ~0.82;    right now its somewhere at 68  
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-^ run ^ parameter ^ observations ^ 
-| 5 | Reset "Feedrate" to 16mm/s and "Extrusion Diameter over Thickness" 1.38 | not much better | 
-| 6 | reduced feedrate to 8mm/s and Flowrate PWM to 250 | much better, but a bit clicking in the first base layer | 
-| 7 | raised feedrate back to 16mm/s and Flowrate PWM to 480 and "Base Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness" to 0.5 | further improvment, no clicking, raft: very thin first layer | 
-| 8 | raised FLowrate PWM to 520, raised "Base Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness" to 0.7 | very thin in the first raft layer and clicking => aborted | 
-| 9 | feedrate 10, Flowrate PWM 300, "Extrusion Diameter over Thickness" 1.5 | minimal improovement | 
-| 10 | "Base Infill Density" from 0.5 to 0.3, increased "Flowrate PWM" to 480 while printing | best quality so far | 
-| 11 | "Base Infill Density"from 0.3 to 0.35 "Flowrate PWM" = 470 | teh horrors!!1! WORST QUALITY SO FAR | 
-| 12 | "Base Infill Density"from 0.3 to 0.35;"Flowrate PWM" = 470; "Extrusion Width over Thickness" from1.8 to 1.1 | tight layers, but less accuracy| 
-| 13 | "Layer Thickness" from 0.4 to 0.3; "Feedrate" from 16 to 19mm/s | Best so far | 
-| 14 | "Extrusion Width Over Thickness" from 1.1 to 1.3 | probably a bit too much | 
-| 15 | "Extrusion Width Over Thickness" back to 1.2 | still not as tight as #13 bit more accurate | 
-| 13b | tried #13 settings on handcuff key | epic fail: completely smeared object. Also the raft seems to be too low on the baseplate. Iggy readjusted baseplate after print as it didn't move smoothly, probably had skipped a gear or so on one pole. BTW: upper part not completely flat (bend), could be a problem for larger/not centric objects | 
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-Right now my skeinforge-config works very well with small to medium layer sizes but is useless with very small layersizes (melting). With large objects the accuracy is good as well, but there can be problems because layers are not connected properly. This can be fixed with a dirty "workaround" by melting the layers together with hot air gun. 
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-You can get the current state of my modified skeinforge-config [[https://brezn.muc.ccc.de/~9r/reprap/9Rreprap_profile.tar|here]]. 
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-To use it you will have to unpack it to .skeinforge/profiles/  
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-If you have modified your skeinforge-config it is a good idea to create a profile of your current state before loading another profile. 
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-=======G-Code Hacking====== 
-Wer die komplette Kontrolle ueber die Hardware will, muss zum Maschinencode greifen, so war es immer, und so wird es immer sein :) Wobei ein "Assembler" fuer G-Code schon gut waere. von Hand wirklich was am Modell editieren ist eine Qual - aber durchaus auch mit vi zu schaffen, fuer den Handschellenschluessel habe ich (ray) das bereits gemacht. 
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-Aber vorsicht: wer hier wirklich z.B. an Koordinaten rumfuhrwerkt kann den Reprap gegen die Wand, das Objekt, sich selbst und ueberhaupt fahren. Komplette Selbstzerstoerung halte ich fuer umsetzbar... Und nein, die beiden Brandflecken in der Platform kommen nicht von mir! 
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-Durchaus praxisnaeher als Aenderungen am 3D-Modell sind aber Aenderungen an manchen Parametern, hier erstmal die wichtigsten Infos: 
-[[ http://rapmanv3.blogspot.com/2009/05/gcodes.html | G/M-Code Referenz von Bitsfrombytes ]] 
-[[ http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/MCodeReference | M-Code Reference von reprap ]] 
-Generell steuern die G-Codes den Kopf, die M-Codes veraendern Parameter. 
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-Z.B.: Raft mit hoeherer Temperatur plotten (damits am Boden haelt) als das Modell, die Temperatur regelt der Paramter M104. Das Raft erkennt man im Code leicht, es sind die ersten drei "Bloecke" von G1 Zeilen im File. Davor ist z.B. ein M104 S246.0, dannach dann noch zweimal - das ist die Stelle wo der Extruder in die Ecke faehrt und nochmal heizt. Aendert man die zweiten M104 (warum die doppelt ist weiss ich nicht wirklich) auf z.B. S235.0 kann man kuehler printen - z.B. wichtig wenn das Modell grosse Bruecken hat. ACHTUNG: bei geringerer Temperatur sollte man auch den Materialvorschub (M108) reduzieren, sonst kann der Druck im Extruder zu gross werden. 
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-Bei meinem Schluessel habe ich das Raft jetzt auch in hoeherer Geschwindigkeit als das Objekt (geht einfach schneller und das Raft braucht die Praezision nicht), die Bewegung wird ueber den F Parameter am Ende jeder G1 Zeile bestimmt. Wieder ACHTUNG: den Materialvorschub muss man auch hier wieder an die Geschwindigkeit anpassen. Grob sollte wohl gelten: doppelte Geschwindigkeit, doppelte Materialmenge. 
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-Ebenfalls machbar: nach dem Printen des Rafts den Extrueder erst "aus dem Weg" bringen, so dass er beim Fahren in die Ecke den Wurstrest nicht gerade quer unter das Objekt legt... Und wohl auch vorher noch ne kleine Ehrenrunde fahren ehe man weiterplottet, hab ich aber noch nicht gemacht. 
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-Beobachtungen: 
-  * M104 aendert eben nicht nur die Temperatur sondern faehrt auch in die Ecke bis die neue Temperatur erreicht ist. Das ist eigentlich schade, an den Bedienelementen des RepMan kann man die Temperatur auch "live" aendern, und ich hatte eine RepRap G-Code Doku auch mal so verstanden, dass es dafuer zwei M-Codes gaebe, einen mit "dwell" und einen ohne. Wo ist der Source?!? 
-  * M103/M101 schalten den Materialvorschub aus und an. Allerdings laeuft immer noch bischen was nach. Hardcore-Tuner koennten evtl. bei "Spruengen" die letzten "Striche" vor dem Sprung langsamer mit bereits abgeschaltetem Vorschub ziehen um sauberere Raender zu erreichen. Werde ich wohl mal testen... 
-  * M108 aendert den Materialvorschub, das kann man durchaus auch mitten im Print machen! Allerdings wird er im Display des RepMan nicht immer upgedated - wohl ein Bug. Ich *glaube* nachgeprueft zu haben dass es aber nur ein Fehler im Display ist, sollte man vor extremen Versuchen aber nochmal verifizieren. Und dann mal reporten!    
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-Paramter: 
-  * (ray) Mein Raft printe ich aktuell mit M108 S400.0, M104 S246.0 bei nem Speed von F960.0 
-  * (ray) brauchbare Schluessel habe ich jetzt z.B. mit M108 S210,9, M104 S240.0 und nem Speed von F480.0 geprinted. Allerdings habe ich aktuell noch nen suboptimalen Start unten (zieht sich leicht zusammen), muss ich evtl. noch mit dem Materialvorschub experimentieren. Besser ging das mit der hoeheren Temperatur, aber die erzeugt nen unsauberen Ueberhang im schluesselbart, und leider kann man aktuell eben nicht live aendern. 
  
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